3 jours de mauvais temps….

Michel Vacle Islande 247 Commentaires

 

Du 9 au 11 juillet

Après un avant goût du centre avec « le Laki », nous espérons une amélioration du temps pour les «  sites réputés » que sont Vik, le Landmannalaugar et l’île de Westmannaeyjar.

Vik

La journée ne commence pas trop mal, nous pourrons sûrement photographier des macareux après avoir profité de la plage de sable noir vantée par les guides…

Eh bien non ! il pleut et la visibilité est nulle. Nous profitons de ce désagrément pour mettre le site à jour dans un pub.

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25 km plus loin, nous retrouvons, un moment, notre bonne humeur devant la superbe cascade de Skogar.

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En continuant la route, sous la pluie, nous passons devant le volcan « Eyjafjallajokull » qui a beaucoup fait parler de lui en 2010 dans tout l’hémisphère nord.

Un musée, un film de l’éruption et des ses conséquences est projeté. Mais, il est plus de 18h et c’est fermé. C’est pas grave, on ira demain matin.

En attendant, nous prenons une piste sur 40 km pour contourner le volcan. Depuis Skogar, nous voyons vraiment les dégâts causés par la fonte brutale du glacier. Les plaines sont recouvertes de cendres les routes et ponts sont refaits ou en cours.

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Le temps est un peu meilleur et, après plusieurs gués, nous apercevons un sommet enneigé, peut être le fameux volcan ?

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Enfin, nous retournons dormir à la cascade de Skogar. Les visiteurs arrivent jusqu’à plus de minuit.

Il est vrai que trouver un rythme normal sans que le soleil ne se couche n’est pas simple.

Île de Westmannaeyjar.

 

Aujourd’hui, Doreen a 50 ans, dommage que le ciel n’ai pas envisagé de lui fêter. Il faudra encore faire avec…

 

Cette journée commence par le petit musée où un film est projeté. Très bien fait, il nous raconte la vie de la ferme voisine et de ses habitants pendant l’éruption de 2010. Nous conseillons cet arrêt aux personnes de passage.

La ferme aujourd’hui

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et au début de l’éruption.

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Nous n’avons pas vu les Macareux de Vik, alors, essayons ceux de l’ île de Westmanneyjar.

a la une

Parait-il qu’il faut réserver à l’avance le bateau, mais, nous arrivons 25 mn avant le départ et pouvons embarquer.

Le trajet ne fait qu’une demi heure, heureusement pour les sensibles, car la houle et pénible. De toutes façons, nous avons retrouvé nos amis Nico et son neveu. Et avec Nico, le temps passe vite… Ce soir il dorment au camping et vont manger du Macareux. Il y en a des millions alors, pourquoi pas !

5Mn après le débarquement, nous allons à l’autre bout de l’île, photographier les Macareux. Eh bien, non, ce ne sera pas encore pour cette fois. La bruine et un vent très fort, dissuadent quiconque d’aller s’aventurer sur les falaises.

Nous restons dans Pépère le temps d’un repas. A coté, quelques courageux rentrent à leur voiture gelés et, certainement sans photo de Macareux.

Cette île a une histoire géologique récente.

En 1963 , une éruption sous marine permet la naissance de l’île la plus récente de la planète, Surstsey.

En 1973, les habitants, ont eu la chance de pouvoir être évacuer à temps. Le volcan Eldfell émergea sur l’île. La lave qu’il a vomi pendant des jours a agrandi l’île. Pour sauver une partie du village et l’entrée du port, ils ont déversé des millions de M3 d’eau de mer sur la lave en fusion. Et, ça a marché.

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On peut parcourir le cimetière des maisons ensevelies sous la coulée de lave.

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C’est très impressionnant… Et, quand on sait qu’aucun de ces deux cataclysmes n’avait été prévu par les experts, on se demande vraiment comment la population peut vivre ici. Nous, on ne serait pas rassurés.

L’île est petite, nous en faisons vite le tour.

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Le restaurant où nous avons rendez vous ce soir est fermé (faillite). Un habitant nous conseille le meilleur de l’île. Il nous faut maintenant retrouver Nico pour changer de plan.

C’est au camping du cratère que nous le retrouvons bien au chaud dans le chalet mis à disposition.

Juste à coté d’un golfe où les îliens jouent sous la pluie, ce lieu est majestueux. Nous dormirons là ce soir également.

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Maintenant, passons aux choses sérieuse, nous allons au fameux « meilleur restaurant de la ville » pour fêter l’anniversaire de Doreen.

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La nourriture est typique et très bonne. Nous profitons du concours de chant que se livrent deux tables d’islandais d’un bout à l’autre de la salle.

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Le vent semble s’être calmé, mais en arrivant au camping, Nico et son neveu ne veulent pas dormir dans leurs petites tentes. Elles s’aplatissent à chaque rafale de vent. Il faut donc transférer, dans la tempête, les couchages pour qu’ils puissent dormir par terre dans le chalet.

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Nous, nous irons passer la nuit, plus loin, « un peu plus » à l’abri de la tempête.

Doreen se souviendra sans doute longtemps de son cinquantième anniversaire…

Le Landmannalaugar

Nous ne passerons pas un jour de plus sur cette île paradisiaque (par beau temps) mais infernale les jours de tempête.

Comme souvent chez nous, s’il ne fait pas beau en plaine, allons à la montagne chercher le soleil.

Nous décidons l’aller au Landmannalaugar (lieu extraordinairement beau d’après les guides et ceux qui y sont allés).

La route alterne le bon

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et le très mauvais

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plus bien sûr, un gué, assez profond pour finir.

D’ailleurs, les chevaux sont bien appropriés au terrain.

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En route, nous faisons quelques photos malgré le manque de visibilité

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et à l’arrivée, nous voyons des gens qui essaient de vivre normalement, dans un environnement de boue, d’humidité et de brouillard. Espérons que demain il fera beau ou moins mauvais.

Beaucoup ont même le courage de faire un aller retour, dans le froid,

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jusqu’ à la source chaude.

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Nous, on ira demain si le temps se lève.

C’est vraiment impressionnant de voir tous ces gens vivre dehors, dans de telles conditions, avec pour seule chaleur, celle de leur petite tente…

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Merci Pépère.

 

 

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